Monthly Archives: January 2014

The Coolest Cafe on Lesvos: Bats, Unwanted Hotels, and I Am So Awake

I have had 4, count them, 4 espressos today because I needed to use the wifi in various cafés at various times throughout the day, and I’m in one now and I think there’s a bat in one of their hanging lamps, because it keeps moving and swaying sort of violently independently of anything and […]

Bergama: amazing archaeology, night buses, and creepy Turkish men.

Yeah. I had to have a creepy experience with a Turkish man at some point. But that was not the most important part of my weekend in Bergama, the most important part was Pergamum. If you go to Pergamum, have at least three hours to devote to the acropolis alone, particularly if you are the […]


Büyükada was my last day in Istanbul. I went spur of the moment that morning (early afternoon, if I remember correctly, we had all been up until 4am the night before for no good reason) with two of the guys I had met at the hostel. It was, quite possibly, a perfect last day. Istanbul, […]

The Athens Flea Market

If you have been to Athens and haven’t been to the Athens flea market, you have missed out on one of the best spectacles of the city. If you haven’t already been to Athens, plan your trip to fall over a weekend, and get up early Sunday morning. Follow the Apostolou Pavlou around the acropolis […]

Love to Hisarüstü

While it is my favorite city in the world, it felt very very strange to come back to Istanbul. Bits and pieces of my Turkish came back to me, which made bus conversation and scarf-haggling a bit easier. Wandering around Taksim was just as much fun as always, and I remembered most of the bus […]


There are some bars you go to where you know every song they play, and that’s great. There are other bars you go to where you know absolutely none of the songs they play, and that’s better. I got to see one of my old flat mates last night, something I was really looking forward […]

Chicago to Toronto – Toronto to Istanbul

“Are you nervous?” “No.” “Are you excited?” “Eehyeehh.” “How DO you feel?” This was the conversation I had with my mom while it was browsing through the airport bookstore. Besides the general Europe Lonely Planet, I’m not taking any books with me, and I can’t get used to that. Looking through the selection the bookstore […]