The Coolest Cafe on Lesvos: Bats, Unwanted Hotels, and I Am So Awake

I have had 4, count them, 4 espressos today because I needed to use the wifi in various cafés at various times throughout the day, and I’m in one now and I think there’s a bat in one of their hanging lamps, because it keeps moving and swaying sort of violently independently of anything and I’m just staring at it and frowning because I need someone else in this cafe to notice what I’m noticing in order for my day to be complete.

Seriously, it’s moving way too much to be a bug, unless it’s a beetle the size of a golfball. It’s a bat. Why has no one noticed this?

Really, I might as well get a room at the Orpheos, because I’m not going to be sleeping tonight. It’s supposed to be cheap but, Walter, the desk guy at Athens Backpackers Hostel (a really great hostel, free breakfast, spotless rooms, would definitely recommend) told me it had bed bugs, but if I’m not sleeping, than who cares? I’m probably going to take the ferry to Ayvalık tomorrow anyway, so who cares in the end. It’s not that I think 30 or 35 euros for a hotel room is exorbitant, I’ve just really loved paying closer to 15, and I’m not making the adjustment well. The rooms are gorgeous and private for 30 euro, but I don’t want gorgeous, I want spartan and shared.

Anyway, though I wanted to avoid paying 35 euro for another night in a hotel, I will end up doing so. I failed to forsee the possibility, nay, the probability that there wouldn’t be an overnight boat back to Athens tonight. I have two options.

1. Take the 10€ ferry at 9am to Ayvalık, re entering Turkey, take the bus from Ayvalık to Istanbul, and then take a train from Istanbul to most likely Sofia and then find a transfer to Sarajevo or Belgrade.

2. Take the 42€ ferry at 11am to Athens, get in at 8pm, spend a night in Athens Backpackers and then take a train the next morning to Sofia to find a transfer to Sarajevo or Belgrade.

This may be my fourth espresso, but I think I’ve found the coolest cafe in Lesvos. Their playing what I think is Johnny Cash covering Personal Jesus. The bartender has really epically long, but buzzed mutton chops. I think I smell weed.

On a different note, here are som real questions I have asked people random people in Greece this past week, and they were all honest, legitimate questions that I did not know the answer to:
1. What street am I on?
2. What day is it?
3. Where am I?

Yes, I was very lost. The guys in the shop got a good kick out of the last one, and helped me find where I wanted to go. I have no excuse for the others other than it’s not always important when traveling to keep track of what day it is. Even when I buy tickets, I don’t really need to know the day, because most of there time the ticket I’m buying is for a bus/train/plane leaving the same day.

The bat is still in the lamp. I’m giving up, paying for my fourth espresso, and going back to my 30 euro hotel room with all the privacy and nice carpet that I don’t want or care about. You can bet your ass I’m taking the complimentary shampoos.

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